In partnership with the Maine Memory Network Maine Memory Network

Historic Clothing Collection

Outerwear 1870 to 1900

Day jacket, ca. 1880
Day jacket, ca. 1880Maine Historical Society

Dolman sleeved mantles suitable to wear with large skirts or bustles dominated women's outerwear in the earlier part of this period. Examples of mantles (jackets) designed to accomodate a bustle include a pale green damask edged with white rabbit fur for evening; and a velvet trimmed multicolored, striped wool, printed jacket trimmed in velvet. More elaborate examples include a rich brown and gold jacquard patterned dolman mantle, embellished with cord embroidery and long, dense fringe.

Opera coat, Berlin, ca. 1895
Opera coat, Berlin, ca. 1895Maine Historical Society

A dramatic dark green, princess style (shaped without a waist seam) full length quilted lined opera coat, made in Berlin, Germany with heavy corded silk, leg-of-mutton sleeves, and dense passementerie embellishment is a dramatic example of later styles. An interior label reads "Confections Bazaar, A. Rosenthal, Berlin."

Two black, flared shoulder capes, one sturdy wool, the other silk taffeta, are styled to wear over large 1890s sleeves. Both feature high face encircling collars make room for voluminous sleeve trends. Also allowing for fuller sleeves, is a London made cream light wool cape with purple silk lining, lace shoulder frills and high lace trimmed collar.

A black late 1890s wool cape-coat with loose back pleating, extensive silk cord embellishment, has its own exaggerated peaked shoulders, with a high ostrich feather trimmed collar.

A long unlined heavy wool bouclé coat with a button(many since missing) front closure, soft pleating from center back, and trimmed with simulated fur also features volume at the upper sleeves. This shorter coat style is associated with the Bradbury family of Standish.